Camino Portuguese — Day Six — A Guarda — Villadesuso 18.8 km • Secret land

On the sixth day of the Way of St. James, I had to cover 18.8 km from the town of A Guarda to the town of Villadesuso.

According to the forecast, it was supposed to rain. The evening before, it had turned colder, the wind picked up, and it rained all night, but it stopped by morning. I hadn’t walked in the rain yet, and I really didn’t want to. I needed to cover 18 km, and my tendons were still hurting.

Galicia uses Central European Time, but honestly, Portuguese time would make more sense, because at seven in the morning it’s still pitch dark, and it doesn’t start getting light until around eight.

I left the hotel at about ten in the morning, which is pretty late for a pilgrim. The breakfast there was excellent. While having breakfast, I ran into three women pilgrims I’d been seeing frequently since Porto.

I followed the arrows through the central part of A Guarda and reached the ocean. The sky was overcast, but the sun came out, and I hoped it wouldn’t rain.

This is the path leading down to the beach in A Guarda early in the morning. The stone-lined walkway winds gently downhill, opening up to a rugged coastline where waves crash against the rocks. The sky is still heavy with clouds, but golden sunlight is breaking through, casting a beautiful glow over the sea and the scattered houses with red-tiled roofs. It’s peaceful and fresh, with the ocean stretching out into the horizon. A perfect start to the day!

I saw my first stone marker of the Way of St. James. These markers will appear along the entire route, showing the number of kilometers remaining. The little bunny that someone had drawn on the pilgrim bench also kept appearing quite often along the way.

A statue of a pilgrim along the Camino de Santiago.

Along the way, I also came across quite a few stone washhouses like this. Nowadays, they’re no longer in use, but it seems that in Spain, most people do their laundry in modern public laundromats, as there are plenty of them in every town.

Here’s what this washhouse looks like inside.

One last glimpse of A Guarda.

There are still 160.5 km left to walk to Santiago de Compostela.

I still have 160.5 km to go until Santiago de Compostela.

This photo captures a beautiful stone path winding its way along the coastline, with the ocean stretching out to the horizon under a cloudy sky. The uneven stones, weathered and scattered with moss and lichen, give the trail a rugged, ancient feel. On one side, waves crash gently against rocky outcrops, while grassy slopes and boulders rise on the other. It’s a stunning and peaceful scene — the kind of path that makes you feel deeply connected to nature and the history of the Camino.

This photo shows a classic Camino de Santiago stone marker standing on a smooth rock by the ocean. The marker has the iconic yellow scallop shell on a blue background and an arrow pointing the way forward for pilgrims. It’s surrounded by rugged grass, moss-covered rocks, and an old stone wall winding through the landscape. In the distance, the sea stretches out under a cloudy sky, adding to the wild beauty of the scene. It feels like a perfect symbol of the journey — guiding you onward through stunning coastal views.

Along the path, there were stone pillars where pilgrims would leave notes and messages. On one of them, I spotted a Ukrainian sticker.

Cetárea Redonda refers to special pools that were used for harvesting and raising lobsters.

This photo shows a peaceful dirt path winding along the coastline, with the ocean visible on the left and a lush green mountain rising on the right. The track is flanked by tall grass and scattered rocks, giving it a wild, untouched feel. Under the cloudy sky, the colors look soft and muted, adding to the sense of calm. It’s the kind of trail that makes you want to keep walking and see what lies around the bend!

This photo shows a lovely trail winding through lush greenery, with a stone wall lining one side and dense bushes and trees on the other. The path gently curves toward the hills in the distance, where the slopes are covered in vibrant green vegetation. Above, the sky is a mix of bright blue and scattered clouds, creating a beautiful contrast with the landscape. It feels peaceful and inviting — the perfect kind of path for a pilgrim’s journey!

After that, the trail went along the highway. I ended up falling behind the other pilgrims I’d left A Guarda with and was walking on my own for a bit. This yellow path made me think of The Wizard of Oz, where Dorothy walks along the Yellow Brick Road.

This photo shows a quiet, shaded path winding through dense greenery. The dirt trail is covered in fallen leaves, and the thick trees and bushes create a tunnel-like feeling around the way forward. Soft light filters through the leaves, giving the scene a peaceful, almost secret atmosphere. It looks like the perfect spot for a calm, reflective walk along the Camino.

In Portecelo, I found a pilgrim café. I stopped in to get my stamp, but then it started raining, so I decided to wait inside for a bit. Lots of pilgrims pulled out their rain ponchos, but I’d forgotten mine back home, so all I had was a rain cover for my backpack. I was wearing a lightweight waterproof jacket, but my legs would have gotten soaked even if I’d had a poncho.

Cafeteria Horizonte — a pilgrim café in the little town of Portecelo.

The rain didn’t last very long, and before long, I was on my way again. I absolutely loved the scenery — pine trees and the ocean.

The trail led through small villages by the ocean. It was here that I first noticed wires strung along stone walls with signs saying they were electrified. I’m not sure if it’s to keep pilgrims out of private property or to stop horses from getting loose.

This photo captures a stunning view of the ocean under a partly cloudy sky. Gentle waves roll in and crash against rugged rocks scattered along the shoreline. The foreground is dotted with smooth stones and patches of green moss clinging to the rocks. The sea stretches endlessly into the horizon, shifting from deep blue to lighter shades where the sunlight breaks through the clouds. It’s a beautiful, wild coastal scene that feels both peaceful and full of energy.

This photo shows a beautiful path winding through what looks like an elven forest. The narrow trail is bordered by an old stone wall on one side and lush, overhanging greenery on the other. Sunlight filters softly through the dense leaves, creating a magical, dappled light on the path. It feels hidden and serene, as if you might stumble upon elves around the next bend, whispering secrets among the trees. It’s the kind of place that feels straight out of a fantasy tale!

The road passed through such beautiful scenery, and I couldn’t stop enjoying and marveling at it all.

Sometimes I felt like Frodo traveling through Middle-earth.

In Portugal, the trail followed the ocean coastline, but in Spain, it winds its way through the mountains.

Along the way, I came across the Ermita de San Sebastián chapel (on the map), where I stamped my pilgrim passport.

Inside the Ermita de San Sebastián chapel. It was originally dedicated to Saint Anthony, but in 1770, it was rebuilt and the image of Saint Sebastian was moved here.

A little street in the town of Oia.

The Mosteiro de Santa María de Oia is a majestic monastery in the town of Oia, and you can see it from a long distance away.

One final glimpse of the town of Oia.

After leaving Oia, I had another 3.5 km to go before reaching my place to stay in Villadesuso.

That night, I stayed at Alojamiento Camino Portugues Oia. It was my first time staying in an albergue along the Camino de Santiago.

This photo captures a beautiful sunset over the ocean. The golden sun hangs low in the sky, casting a shimmering trail of light across the water’s surface. Waves gently crash against dark, rugged rocks along the shore, while the grassy hillside in the foreground glows with a soft, green hue under the fading light. The whole scene feels peaceful and magical, as the day slowly gives way to evening.

Because the albergue had a kitchen, I chose not to go out to a café for dinner. I picked up some groceries at the gas station next door and ate at the albergue instead. I also finally managed to do my laundry — they had both a washing machine and a dryer there.

There was a big wedding happening at a hotel nearby, and I spent some time watching how weddings are celebrated in Galicia. The music from the wedding kept us company at the albergue late into the evening, and afterwards, there were fireworks.

Stats for today.

All in all, the sixth day was filled with amazing moments and gorgeous views. Even though I got caught in a light rain, it didn’t dampen my spirits or take away from the joy of the trip.

Camino Portuguese — Day Six — A Guarda — Villadesuso 18.8 km

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